Sunday, June 27, 2010

Notes On the Nuu-Chah-Nulth


I live on the Ucluelet Inlet, and guide kayak trips frequently in the area. There is an incredible amount of First Nations history right here. Every beach has a traditional name and use. Every point, every stretch of water. Before white contact, there were 50,000 people living on the coast from the Brooks Peninsula on Vancouver Island down to Makah territory, just across the US border. That number hit a population low of 2,000 in the '20's and '30's, decimated by introduced disease and by supplies of firearms and ammunition given to select groups or tribes.

The people of the west coast of Vancouver Island from the Brooks Peninsula down, although comprised of many separate tribes, now choose the name Nuu-Chah-Nulth, meaning "All Along the Mountains." This is primarily a language designation, separating them from the Kwakiutl to the north and north-east on the Island, and the Salish to the south and south-east.

Nuu-Chah-Nulth territory is further divided into Northern, Central, and Nitinat. The area I live in is in Central Nuu-Chah-Nulth territory, which includes the Hesquiaht, Ahousaht, Clayoquot, Ucluelet, Toquaht, Uchucklesaht, Tseshaht, and Ohiaht. Even these names are just broad terms for many smaller groups. The Kelsemat were originally of Vargas Island, but joined the Ahousaht after their men were lost in a sealing expedition in the Bering Sea. The Otsosat were of Flores Island, but were almost annihilated by the Ahousaht in the early 19th century. The Wildside Trail on Flores Island, established by the modern Ahousaht, has interpretive signs at the sites where much of the warfare occurred.

With thanks to Denis St. Clair for much of the above information.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

A Perfect Day in the Valley

Gale force winds took me off the water early yesterday, so I had an extra half day off. Decided to go to Courtenay. Way overdue. It's been so great so far.

Drove the Island Highway that's all early-summered out with tall white daisies, Nootka roses, lupines, and broom. Mid-summer there'll be California poppies.

I'm getting to see everyone. Started out last night in a rainstorm, met up with Serena for dinner at Tita's. We talked and talked and talked and had a half litre of margaritas, and it's like I never left. Met up with pregnant Carolyn and Serena this morning for coffee at the Freakin'. Then went straight from there to Pho for lunch with Serena. We were supposed to meet Sarah and Denise there too, but they couldn't make it. Dropped by Denise's to pick up a bike for Serena, and got to catch up with Chuck quickly. Then Serena and I met up with Sarah in Cumberland for mountain biking.

It was amaaazing! We were out there for three and a half hours or so. Went up and up and up the logging road forever, climbing and climbing. Bright sunshine today, and it was hot. Skipped all our usual trails so that we could do the stuff at the top. I think I'm doing the same thing again tomorrow, it was so good. Huge workout. Connected to Bear Buns, which was a super fun ride, lots of ups and downs, technical but not too, and not too rooty. From there over 42nd Street, which is a trail, not a street, and then across the Sykes Bridge, and down the western part of Teapot to Allen Lake. I wanted to jump in, and we all did. Skinnydipping, first swim of the year. The water wasn't even that cold. I swam right out into the middle and back. Then we went along the old railroad grade for a while, and somehow missed the Crafty Butcher turnoff, but caught up with Lower Crafty and did that. Then more logging road, Black Hole, Space Nugget, and out. Super fun ride. I was ready to go again at the end of it, so stoked.

Had a couple hours to chill, then met up with Carolyn to go see Sex and the City 2. Fun fluff entertainment. And I still get to go see Lisa tomorrow morning, and check on Quincy, and go for coffee with Denise in the afternoon, and meet Jimmy for drinks after work before I drive back to Ukee. And I'm getting another ride in tomorrow too, hopefully with Sarah.

Best Courtenay visit ever. I love my friends and I'm so grateful for my life.